Incepted in 1952, Hoi On Cafe is one of the few traditional ‘Bing Sutts’ – Hong Kong-style cafes of the old days during the 1950s–70s – still in business to date; located on Connaught Road West, the building where it is situated is one of the few five-storey structures in Sheung Wan.
Hoi On is currently run by Annie Au Yeung, whose father – famous for his nickname ‘Uncle Prawn’ in the neighbourhood – was the founder. He later partnered with Wong Shing-lun (commonly known as ‘Uncle Wong’) from 1976 onwards until he passed away in the mid-1980s.
Annie’s mother filled in for her spouse for the subsequent 10 years until retirement, making Uncle Wong the sole owner by then.
After more than 35 years of work, Uncle Wong eventually decided to step down. Upon his invitation, Annie agreed to take over the cafe in January 2011.
Reddish teak-wood furniture against plain white tiled floor and beige walls at Hoi On Cafe
Step into Hoi On and you will see vestiges of yore – white tiled floor, plain beige walls, two rusted steel windows, 12 wooden tables (seven of which are part of the signature red teak-wood booths lined alongside opposite walls), two old ceiling fans (one already in disrepair), and so forth.
By and large, the decor emanates a wave of nostalgia.
And so does the menu: Not only are such western treats as coffee and toasts served, ‘common Hong Kong-style treats like “milk tea” (a mixture of black tea and evaporated milk) and “pineapple buns” (sweet pastry with a golden-brown sugary crust atop) are among the local people’s beloved,’ said Annie.
‘Bing Sutts’ are also well-known as a micro-community where people got connected to one another in times past; Hoi On is no exception, even until now.
‘It feels like I am not running a business. We and many of our customers – no matter their ages – are just like old friends,’ Annie said. ‘It is in part such strong bonds that motivate me to run this cafe and keep it alive.’
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I actually was here a year ago, and was working on a project on culture worth preserving in Hong Kong. At that time, the owner was rather resigned on the fate of the cafe… but now it seems like there’s this new owner and new life is being injected into this lovely cafe! I love how personal we get to know the owner – about her insistance on keeping the old ways of the cafe – her tone and her attitude comes across really well. And I love the black and white effects, and then those without the black and white effects give a feeling of a new and lively revitalized cafe with the new owner. And the part with the old man eating the “pineapple bun” is just amazing.
Great job Nicky! The story is very coherent and the visuals are very interesting – especially loved the consecutive shots of an old man eating a pineapple bun. Makes me want to give it a visit!
There is really good ambient sound the goes with what’s going on in the photos and the interview! Nice job on putting everything together. It flows pretty well.
Nicky! First, I really love your story plot, it points out the fading culture of Hong Kong style cafe, and on the other hand, highlights the determination of Hoi On in maintaining the culture. And I especially love the continuous shots of the old man having the bread! You are able to capture the traditional style of the cafe, like the red chairs and cashier counter, also the close bond between customers and staff! I would definitely go to try Hoi-On cafe some day!
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